Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built


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The biscuit serving as a spline between the two pieces.

When glued the biscuits swell, making a very strong and tight glue joint between two pieces of edge to face, wood screw assembled, plywood parts. As to the machines adjustable sanding table … the Birch faced 5-ply type of plywood used, with a polyurethane finish on both sides, assures that it stays flat, and it's top work surface will not ware excessively fast. If, or when it ever starts to show ware, just lightly sand and re-finish it, before allowing it get down to bare wood. An alternate sanding table work surface, is to face the plywood with a Formica type laminate material.

Being sure to cover both the top and bottom of the table, so with humidity change and the difference in expansion of the table's materials, the laminate top and bottom will neutralize any warping or bowing of the table. Note: Angle iron is sometimes not really flat, so only snugly secure it to the table bottom with a wood screw at each end, using an oversize screw clearance holes in the angle, to avoid warping the tables' surface and provide for expansion differences.

Note: Oil the table's piano hinge, so the table can move as freely as possible. Round topped access ports were cut in the two housing sides, and a round cornered access port in the front, for access to the motor for drive belt tension adjustment, and to allow circulating air for the motor. The machine is bolted to a base cabinet, which in my case was a short depth [14"] two draw filing cabinet, purchased from a second hand office equipment dealer.

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If one is found , have it checked out by a motor repair shop before using it. When adjusted for the correct belt tension, the motor base was locked down, by putting a fitted wood shim under the motor base and locking it down with two wood screws. By fixing the motor in place, there is no excessive downward force exerted on the sanding drum shaft by the weight of the drive motor hanging from it, and as a result the machine probably runs smoother. On my machine I have successfully taken some strip wood down to. I would suggest shopping around at industrial suppliers, to see what is now available.

One source of pillow block bearings is Small Parts Inc. Their product line, in general, is a great hard-to-find odds-and-ends source for model makers. My preference for mounting the pillow blocks was mechanical fastenings for an installation like this.

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Drill Rod, which comes with a precision finished diameter. My local machine shop supplied the Drill Rod and trimmed it to length, milled set screw flats, and put turning centers in each end [see below - turning the drum to 3" diameter]. The shaft has a flat milled on one end, for the drive pulley set screw, and two flats milled for the two pillow block bearing's shaft lock set screws, keeping the set screws from chewing up the shaft's precision finished surface, and making it very difficult to disassemble the pulley and bearings.

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Core Box Pattern Bit [half round] in my router, I cut a half-round groove down the centerline of each piece and clamped them together, around the drum's steel shaft. A hardened steel dowel pin should be available from your local machine shop. Be sure to center the screws in the block for drum balance. Before un-clamping, pre-install the six screws, lubricated with soap or wax, which will speed up the final assembly when you glue the two drum half's together around the steel shaft.

The drum half's and shaft were then Epoxy glued, screwed and clamped together. The six countersunk wood screw holes and the countersunk shaft dowel pin hole were filled with glued in, face grained, maple plugs, supplied by my local cabinet shop. Fortunately their industrial duplicator wood lathe had a traveling tool carriage which assured the drum had the same diameter throughout its length, and they turned the drum down to a 3" diameter.

They used a dead center in the head stock spindle, a live center in the tail stock, and using a faceplate they dogged the drum shaft to the faceplate.


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At the very most, less than one hour of chargeable shop time. This would require a small bevel on the top of the back housing piece, when the table is in the maximum up position. When assembling the sanding table's. Then the piano hinge was first secured even with the bottom back edge of the sanding table, and then loosely secured with it's bottom even with the top of the inside edge of the back face of the housing, with only one screw in the center of the piano hinge, allowing the table to pivot on the screw. Then the rest of the screws were installed in the piano hinge, and the clamping blocks removed.

This set up a very close parallel alignment between the sanding drum face and the table top, which only required some fine tuning as described next. Fine Tuning the Sanding Drum's Face to the Sanding Table: When the machine was completely assembled and running, a 9" x 11" sheet of grit sand paper was secured, with 3M spray adhesive, across the middle of a piece of 11 " x 18" Birch Faced plywood, included in the machine's plywood parts from my local cabinet shop.

It was then run back and fourth under the 10" long revolving drum, with the table being adjusted upward in "extremely small increments" , until the revolving drum was sanded down until its face was perfectly aligned parallel with the table's top surface. The drum was then finished with two coats of polyurethane. To assist in running the abrasive faced plywood back and fourth under the drum, I glued wooden handles to the top face of both ends.

I should note that I had my local cabinet shop run the 11" x 18 " piece of plywood through their thickness sander to assure it's two faces were parallel. I have a permanent metal template for marking the end taper of the tape for trimming. We all know what extreme humidity can do to sandpaper in the summer, but with this method if the abrasive strip expands, you simply loosen one end and snug up the spiraled abrasive strip and refasten it with a new piece of two faced tape.

Note: There is a smooth polyurethane finish on the drum, so two faced tape will readily adhere to it. For "two-faced tape", a roll of 3M Co. This tape is about. This strip of adhesive is impervious to normally incurred heat and cold, will not creep, has a seemingly endless applied life, and the adhesive is extremely aggressive.

It is a commercial product that can be found at Industrial Suppliers who carry 3M Co. For me, the grit abrasive tape gives a suitably smooth sanded surface and the abrasive surface does not seem to load up excessively fast, and can be readily cleaned with a gum rubber cleaning bar. Check with a Woodworking Machine supplier for the availability of rolls of abrasive cloth backed tape in other grits and widths. As an option, you can always mount two different grits of tape on the drum at the same time, which opens up the possibility of designing the machine with a slightly longer sanding drum.

I cut the hole for the opening in the wall, and the wooden ring out with a saber saw. I would like to give a nod to a very nice saw that I borrowed from my neighbor. It is made by Bosch.


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  • Here are two shots of the pieces, and another is of them arranged as they will be when assembled. I printed out my drawing, and attached it to the wall, at the marked center of the board. I then drilled the first hole per the drawing. Then I placed the inlet ring with one hole aligned with a drill bit in the hole, and the other holes aligned with the ones on the drawing. Using the ring as a guide I drilled the other three holes. I then cut out the opening, and the ring.

    I clamped the wood ring in place and drilled the holes through it. Luckily I managed to get them all straight through both pieces, and the screws matched the holes in the housing. I drilled them by hand, as my drill press is buried at the moment, so I was quite pleased that they all came out correctly.

    I thought I was careful in getting the blower on correctly, but notice the arrow drawn on the blower wall in the first picture. It should be pointing up.

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    Yes, I mounted the blower upside down! I then disassembled it all and remounted the blower correctly. I then temporarily mounted the blower and wall to the back of the booth. I will not be gluing this wall to the booth, but attaching it just with screws. I may have to remove it in the future for maintenance. I put it in place so that I could attach the glue strip along the bottom. I waited for this until now, to make sure everything would line up. Here are three shots of the blower and wall put into place, while I was doing this. These shots are with the wall just wedged in place.

    I used clamps to hold everything tight while I was putting in the glue strip. You can see in the pictures that the wall is sticking out a little at the top, before I clamped it tight. The next two pictures are of the installed glue strip. The first is from the front with the wall still clamped in place. The second is from the back with the wall removed. In the first picture you might notice that there are only three screws installed. When I went to the hardware store I asked for 4 8 screws and 4 10 screws.

    The 10s were in case I needed a larger screw than I thought.

    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built
    Woodworking Shopnotes 037 - Shop Built

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